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DIY: Roydsstick.EX Full Sanwa Mod
(ロイズスティック ドット イーエックス)




The Roydsstick.EX (Pronunced Loyds Stick) is an arcade stick with a modular panel design from Try Electronics of Japan.


The setup is modular as it has swappable button panels. You have your 'Capcom' style 8 button layout, and a separate panel with the 'Neo Geo' style 4+1 button layout.

This is a guide on how to modify your Roydsstick.EX with all Sanwa buttons and Joystick, while keeping it's modular ability!

This guide is written using the original PS3 USB board.

A separate guide will be coming that shows the install of a Quad system board. 


As with all other guides on this site, these are fully inclusive guides. They are written step by step so even a first timer can follow (Depending on the person of course)


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Requirements:



Minor Drilling Required (Only two holes)

Minor Cutting Required (Removing mounting posts for orginal joystick)

Soldering Required (Attaching wires to PCB - Desoldering old buttons from orginal PCB)


Tools Needed / Used:



Drill (Any kind to drill screw holes for joystick mounting)

Clippers

Small file 

Soldering Iron

Soldering Wick

Solder

Wire Stripper and Cutter

Heatshrink (Or electrical tape if it is all you have)

Electrical Tape

 



Parts Needed / Used:



Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT Joystick 

Sanwa LB-35 Balltop

Sanwa OBSC 30mm Pushbutton* (Or any brand, holes are already drilled at 30mm) 


12/2/16 UPDATE: Sanwa OBSC Black Rim 30mm Pushbutton does not fit! For some reason these are slightly larger then the OBSC Clear Rim 30mm that I used in this guide. I had ordered Black Rim for another project, and while wood was being drilled, I attempted to put them into the second panel of the Roydsstick.EX and this is when I found out.

It could also be the second panel (4+1 Neo Geo Style) is the problem.

I will test to see if this is the case, and further update this.


M4x10mm Screw and Nut (Set of 4)

16pc 22 AWG Wire with .110 Quick Disconnect (See note below)

10 Connection 22 AWG .110" Ground Daisy Chain Wire (See note below)

(Optional) Larger Acuator / Heavier Spring


All parts purchaced from:  
https://www.focusattack.com/


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NOTE: 

16pc 22 AWG Wire with .110 Quick Disconnect Price = $7.50
10 Connection 22 AWG .110" Ground Daisy Chain Wire = $3.75
Total = $11.25

DIY Below = $5.60


If you wish to make these yourself, you will need the following:

(x16) .110" (2.8mm) Open-Barrel Non-Insulated Quick Disconnect Terminal @ $0.80

 

(x16) Nylon .110" Quick Connector Insulation Sleeve @ $0.80


(x16)(Color) by the Foot 22 AWG Wire @ $4.00 (You will need 8 in black, and 8 colored)


You must make your own ground chain if using this method.


Total Savings:  $5.65






Opening the Roydsstick.EX and Removing the Joystick

With all parts in hand, start by flipping the unit upside down and removing the bottom plate (x4 screws)


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With the bottom plate removed, you can see the original, joystick and USB board.

To access the screws to remove the stock joystick, you first must remove the 3 gold screws on the USB board, and gently move it out of the way. You want to be careful not to break the ribbon cable (try not to twist, bending backwards gently is fine)

NOTE: If you end up breaking one of the ribbon cable wires loose, it's not a big deal. An easy fix with a tiny amount of solder, or you can just pull the wire from the ribbon, and re-solder it directly to the board that way. They are fairly sturdy, so you most likely will not have this issue.


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With the USB board unscrewed and moved out the way, you now have access to the 4 gold screws (leave the 2 silver screws in place). Remove the gold screws.

Now disconnect the 5 wire connector from the USB board. This is important for the next step as you will be removing the stick, and you don't want the wires pulling on your USB board.

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Now turn the unit right side up, and remove the 4 silver screws on the plate, joystick side of the housing.


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Now you want to unscrew the ball top from the stick. Depending on how stuck your ball top is, you may have to grip the shaft with pliers or a vice grip while twisting the ball top off.

 

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Side by side comparison of the stock joystick and the Sanwa JLF joystick. The stock stick fits the Sanwa ball tops!


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Test fitting the Sanwa joystick with the factory brackets, you can see in the second image with the plate on, the stick sits VERY low. The original mounting stands will have to go.

Keep in mind, obvious as it may seem to some, you will not be able to mount the orginal stick back in place after cutting out the posts.



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Not only does it sit too low, you won't be able to fit the base plate back on!



Joystick Preperation 


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IMPORTANT:  WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WITH THIS STEP  --  THE PLASTIC STANDS WILL FIRE AT YOU AT A HIGH SPEED WHEN CUTTING

You will need to cut 5 posts. Not just the 4 that the stock joystick was mounted to, but the 5th post to the right of the stick. This 5th post  will be in the way of your joystick wiring. The 5th post is 1 of 3 mounting posts for the USB board.

Leave the two posts at the back side of the unit where the board attaches. You can look at the next set of images first to verify what you must cut.

With whichever cutting tool you chose to use, get as close to the bottom of the posts as you can, and cut them lose. You may have to apply pressure on one side, then rotate your cutters and cut the other side the rest of the way.



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With the posts cut, you can now use your cutting tool to cut away further at the remains of the mounting posts. Then file them down as flat as possible.


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Joystick Mounting

Now prop your joystick up on a couple of books or any object to raise the unit. You can also set the housing joystick side off the edge of your work surface. This is so you can test fit your joystick to see if it is flush enough to your liking.

Your joystick can now lay completely flat. Against the housing.


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Remove the joystick from your test fitting, flip the unit back over and put only the metal plate for the joystick side back in place and screw back in.

If your joystick was propped up on books before, now you need to let it lay across your work surface, joystick side off the table.

This step is important for marking your mounting holes. You will want your stick centered as possible.

A good starting point is to line up the JLF mounting place like this, with the (Facing you) left holes over the posts you cut, and pressed against the side of the unit as shown.

Now going under the table you can check the position.


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You can reach over and gently move the stick till it is centered to your liking.


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Once your stick is centered, take a marker pen and gently mark inside the holes you wish to use for mounting the joystick.


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When your holes are marked, you can then drill them out. It will be important to make a pilot hole, which allows the bit of your drill to sit still in place when drilling.

You can firmly press a pointed screw down into the plastic until a little indent is made, in the center of your mark.

I had mismarked one of my holes originally, but made note of the correct one to use. Ignore the three marks here.


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Now drill out those holes, and push the bolts through

 

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Set the new joystick in place and tighten down the nuts on the bolts.


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Joystick Wiring

Once your joystick is mounted securely in place, this is the step where you would need to figure out which wire does what!

In this case, the USB board for the stock joystick, the Green wire is left, on the Sanwa joystick the Orange wire is left, but the way this stick is oriented, Yellow is left.

Sounds confusing but here is a diagram.

Sanwa JLF:

Ground - Black
Left - Orange
Down - Yellow
Right - Red
Up - Green

Roydsstick.EX:

Ground - Purple
Left - Green
Down - Brown
Right - Yellow
Up - Red

This Build:

Ground - Black
Left - Yellow
Down - Red
Right - Green
Up - Orange


NOTE: If you are using the same joystick as I am in this guide, all this information will apply to you. If using another joystick, you will want to know how to find out which wire is which.

This is simple with a multi-meter.

Set the multi-meter to Continuity or Ohms

With your joystick in place, attach one lead of your multi-meter to ground. Attach your second lead to any other wire. Click the stick up, down, left and right until you get a reading. If you pushed the stick up, and hear a beep or show resistance, that colored wire is that direction. You would then write that direction down on a piece of paper. 

Image below

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The next step, you will want to use the original connector for the stock joystick. Take the original joystick wiring, and cut about 1 or 2 inches back from the connector and strip the wiring back. (See below image first for example if needed)


20161101 192746

 

Now we know what each color does. We need to match the Left wire of our joystick to the Left wire of the original connector.

We will connect the 'This Build' color codes to 'Roydsstick.EX'

You can even just scroll down a bit and compare the images so you don't have to keep looking back at the text, but here it is in text forum

                              

   This Build:         Connect            Roydsstick.EX:       

Ground - Black         to                 Ground - Purple           
Left - Yellow              to                 Left - Green
Down - Red              to                 Down - Brown
Right - Green           to                 Right - Yellow
Up - Orange             to                 Up - Red


Make sure to slide your shrink wrap over the wiring of your Joystick before soldering wires. If using electrical tape, you can tape your exposed joints after soldering.

To join wires, this is the method you will want to use.

Make a hook with both exposed sections of wire, hook them together and press them to hold in place. Then solder.

Twisting them together and soldering will not be as strong, and will bulk up the size making shrink tubing and even electrical tape slightly difficult



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When your done, your wire matching should look like this. 


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You can slide your shrink wrap over, heat it up for a tight seal.


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NOTE: This is the only non-fully inclusive step of the guide

Now run your wiring through, and plug in the connector. Set the USB board in place as shown. It will hold just fine.

If you wish, you can chop out the remaining posts all together, and find your own way to mount the board. 

Not pictured, but what I had done to keep any accidental shorts (pins on the USB board touching the bottom of the metal plate) was lay a strip of electrical tape across the leads on the bottom of the USB board. 

This is until I replace the original USB board with a different one (Guide coming soon)


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Now you can re-attach the metal base plate, turn your arcade stick over and admire the new joystick.


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PART 2:  REPLACING THE BUTTONS


Remove the button panel from the housing, and lay it down back side up. Remove the 4 screws on the bottom panel


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You will be met with the PCB for the push buttons. Each button is soldered in place, so you will need to desolder each button.

 

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After all buttons are desoldered, remove the 3 gold screws on the button PCB (not the small section)


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Flip the button panel back over face up, and remove the 4 screws on the metal top plate and lift the entire plate out

The buttons will be attached (notch style) into the top plate



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To remove the buttons, you simply twist each one 1/4 of a turn (or into it begins to drop) and pop them all out

 

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Installing The New Push Buttons


Unless you are applying a vinyl skin, it's now time to install your new 30mm push buttons.

When placing, you want to orient the button to have the open ends facing the notches, as shown below


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Now you can push down. With these buttons you sometimes have to push down on each side of the button (imagine it broken into 4 quarters) to make it fully flat.

They will be nice and flush with very little effort. You will hear a slight clicking sound, the button is not breaking.

That is the mounting clips of the actual push button locking into place.

 

20161102 090519

 

Set your panel with buttons mounted aside.

It is now time to desolder the ribbon cable that connected the original button PCB to the connector PCB

You will desolder all 9 points on either side of the ribbon cable

 

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Now here is a problem with how the push buttons sit. The height.

 

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When you attempt to fit the bottom cover back on, it will not close all the way

 

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You will need to attach your quick disconnect cable over the prong, one by one, and gently bend them down at a 90 degree angle

On the Sanwa push buttons, these are very sturdy so there is little chance of breaking. Unless you bend back and forth in both directions.


Each time you bend these, they will weaken at the point where it is bending.

Just go slowly, and you will be fine. It would take a good deal of force to snap it by bending in a 90 degree angle, but still take it slow.

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With all buttons inserted

 

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Before moving on, strip back your quick disconnect wires. You will need these stripped for one of the coming steps.

Attach each quick disconnect then bend, attach the next one, bend, and keep going till all your colored wires are attached

The colors of your buttons may differ from the ones I am using, so you will need to keep track of what color of the wires are connected to each button.

You can mark the bottom of the metal face plate with the X, Circle, Square, Triangle, ect to match those locations on the top side.

Then on a sheet of paper you can write (using mine for example)

Pin1 - L2 - Button Orange - Wire Orange
Pin2 - R2 - Button Dark Blue - Wire Dark Blue
Pin3 - R1 - Button White - Wire White

Ect.

This will be important to keep track of, as these wires will be connecting to the connector PCB

 

 

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Now you can connect your ground chain. You still need to bend the pins at 90 degree angles.

You should have your first point in the ground chain closest to the board so there is a minimal amount of wiring facing the connector 



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You will notice the loop on the black wire sticking out of the back. This will be adjusted in a later step.

You do not want wiring sticking out of the back too far away from the connector, as it will prevent the button layout from being pushed in all the way

 

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Push Button Wiring

 

Right click these images, and select 'Open Image in New Tab' - These will be the wiring diagrams you will refer to for this section


connector-pcb-diagram


Note: When you flip the board over to feed the wires through, the pins are 'reversing' order.
So Pin 9 from the top side is on the far right, and when you turn it over, Pin 9 is on the far left side.

So I'm including both diagrams for those who may get mixed up with these types of things.


FEEDSIDE


Now you need need to feed your wires through the PCB from the underside, one at a time, and solder in place. The holes are a bit smaller then the guage of the wiring listed in parts used. The best way to feed the wires, is to strip the wire back as shown


WIRE1


Now half the amount of exposed wires, as shown here. Twist both wires as tightly as possible. Then clip away the folded down side as close as possible, so you do not have any strands poking out. 


WIRE2z



Leaving you with this


WIRE3


Now you will easily be able to feed your wires through without splitting, or getting jammed.

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Flip the board over, lay the exposed wire flat, and squeese it as tight as possible. This image is before centering the wire. You want to be sure it is stright in place, so no strands are touching other connections.



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If they do, you will have a single button trigger two. It will not cause any harm, but will require you to de-solder the wire and try again.

After the first wire is soldered in place, move on to the next one, and work right to left (Pad 9 to Pad 1)


After all wires are soldered, it will look like this

 

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Feed all your wires down the center of the buttons to the rear, and mount the PCB back on it's stands

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Adjusting the ground wire chain so it is nicely tucked away.

If you insert the button panel and it does not push in all the way, simple remove it, take the bottom back off

and re-adjust the ground wires at the PCB, try again.

 

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Put the base back on, screw it in with the 4 screws, and insert to the system 


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Testing and Troubleshooting

With everything connected, you should plug the arcade stick into your PC and use this tool to test all your buttons and stick.

It's an HTML Game Pad Tester

http://html5gamepad.com/


With each button press you will see a box light up indicating function on that button.


 
Single Button Triggers Two Actions

If a single button press causes two triggers to appear, look at which button you pressed, take the bottom off the button side, examine the wires you soldered in place, on both sides to find out where you have a wire crossed.

You can test this with a multimeter using the continuity setting on your multimeter, or resistance if you do not have continuity.

Start with touching one lead (either color) to Pin 1 and the other lead to Pin 2.

If you show no resistance or hear no beep, touch one lead to Pin 2 and the second to Pin 3, and moving down the line.

This is how you can find if any wires are connecting on the green side (silk screen side) or bridged connnections solder side.

If you show resistance or hear a beep between two pins, one of those wires will need to be desoldered, inspected (any strands of wire poking out that may touch other wires) and resolder the wires. 

Preform this test again.



Button Not Working

If you have a button that simply does not show up on the game pad tester, you have a broken connection somewhere.

This will also be easy to find. And fix.

Test the button 


Same way you would test to see if two pins were touching, you need to do that on the button that was not showing on the HTML Gamepad Tester.

You will take one lead of the multimeter and touch it to one of the terminals on the push button, touch the other multimeter lead to the other terminal on the push button, and press the push button (this will make contact between the two connections).

If you show no resistance or do not hear a beep for contunity (make sure you are pressing the button when testing), you have a faulghty push button.

Test the connection between the button and the connector board

Take one lead of your multimeter to the colored wire side of the button terminal, then the other lead to the corrisponding location on the connector PCB. If you hear a beep or show resistance, there is no break in connection between your button and wire.

Do the same for your ground wire to Pin 9

If you have no resistance showing or hear no beep for contunitity, there is a break somewhere in your wire, and the wire should be replaced. 

Inspect the ribbon cable

If you show connection between both terminals on the push button when pressing down, and show connection between both your colored wire and ground wire to the connector PCB you're next problem may lie in the ribbon cable that attaches the connector PCB to the USB PCB

This can be checked with a visual inspection first.

There is a low chance this will happen, however it's not impossible!

Check to see if either of the points in red are broken away. The most possible place would be where the ribbon cable is attached to the board with the black connector (that your button panel plugs into).

If you have a break, you have two options to repair this.

You can simply press the ribbon cable back down, apply solder to the tip of your iron and gently touch the two broken points to rejoin them.

You can also, if your comfortable, remove the board where the break has occured and desolder the broken wire, PCB side. Then you can seperate the broken wire from the ribbon, strip the wire back till enough is exposed to feed back through the hole on the board.

Then resolder in place.

ribbonbreak

Comments   

Esperanza
0 #3 Esperanza 2017-05-15 23:27
Precisely what I was looking for, thanks for posting.
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SGESagat
0 #2 SGESagat 2017-04-03 15:44
Same issue as the other person whom commented. Thanks.
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nebreus
0 #1 nebreus 2017-01-14 00:42
every post i saw trying to find out about this was impossible to follow n no pics this is good just signed up to say thanks
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