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How many eyes does a typical person have?

DIY: REPAIR DEAD MPC 2000XL AFTER 8-OUT INSTALL




11/13/16 UPDATE:  

When this article and two others were written, they were done on forums before I had made this website.  So foolishly the images were not hosted here, and now lost.

I am in the process of recovering all broken images, and for those that can not be recovered, I will re-create, and clean up some of the instructions. 

Now reading back as I am today, I see formatting needs to be re-done




A lot of repair services from what I read, were ripping a lot of people off.. 

Symptoms: No sound output, maxed out input when sampling is pressed, pad sensors dead.

 

You'll read "I've hooked up everything correctly, turned the 2000xl on, smoke came out"

Cause: 34-Pin cable was plugged in backwards.

From posts I've read it's said 'motherboard problems' and the pad sensors get fried. 



None of this is true.



Other posts mention it was a resistor and a pad sensor blown. Also not true (resistor is correct!). The pad sensors are FINE.

It's a single resistor that fixes all these problems.

There is a lot of bad information from searching here, giving all kinds of different values. Some say 22 or 23ohm, another says 460ohm, another one says 44.1... Then there are different people saying different color bands. These are all incorrect.

The sensor correct color bands is YELLOW - PURPLE - GOLD - GOLD which is:

4.7 Ohm 
1 WATT (From Schematic) 

(LINK TO BUY UPDATING SOON)



(Big thanks to MPC-FORUMS.com Moderator Lampdog for the photo)

Labeled R1 next to the connector for the 8-Out expansion plug. 

This is essentially what it takes to fix all the problems.

Cooked:



Cut it out 

NOTE:

Some might find this strange. If you are one of them, understand all these guides are written for those with little to no expeirence.

If you are thinking to yourself, "this is stupid and unprofessional, you should completely remove the board and desolder it".

Well unprofessional is a relative term. Sure if your paying someone to do the fix and they just snip it out. That's not what you should expect from a repair shop (at least in this case). Second, if you already know how to do that, you wouldn't need to be in the guide this far!

Another thing to consider is this is actually a professional method used in "applications where removal of the component is not praticle or avaiable" called "the cut and crush method"

I do always say, it's a good habit to get into, doing everything the "proper way" but honestly 90% of people who read the orginal posting of this guide, could care less. They just want their gear working. And that's perfectly fine too.




Not so easy trying to guess what colors the bands used to be



New resistors will be a lot smaller, but they are the correct value



Up close to show the correct bands



Solder that guy down



And now your pads will work fine, your output will be back, your inputs will function normally. And you didn't spend 200-400 to do it!

If you don't think your comfortable doing this, send it to someone you trust, throw em a few dollars, and have them solder it in for you.

Takes just a few minutes to do.

So now your safe to give it a shot again, and make sure your ribbon cable is facing in the right direction. 


Comments   

Risk
0 #3 Risk 2016-06-02 19:12
you are a legend
Quote
Mashiro Shiina
0 #2 Mashiro Shiina 2015-11-14 19:14
No problem! Sorry for such a late reply!

That is the common one I always read on forums when people had this problem. The "repair gurus" would give vague responses like 'Motherboard work" or "the audio line is fried".

The whole point of the article, served it's purpose many times over now. I could not be happier to hear you sorted it yourself. :-)
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SluggyBeats
0 #1 SluggyBeats 2015-10-05 15:51
I got qouted 380 for saying the mother board and pads need replace plus audio chip and i looked online to see if anyone can do it for cheaper and i found this

Your joking.. THIS WORKED! THANK YOU
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